Inside the ramparts Avignon shops at human scale: a covered market of forty producers, artisan ateliers on a canal street, faience and indigo-printed cotton, and weekend brocante where Provençal boutis quilts still change hands in cash.
Forty producers under a 600m² vertical garden by Patrick Blanc. Tapenade, Banon goat cheese, Camargue rice, black truffles in winter. Open Tuesday to Sunday 06:00–13:30, closed Monday; free cooking demo Saturdays at 11:00.
Family shop stocking more than forty Provençal tapenades, olive oils, nougat de Sault and lavender honey, most jars under €10. Staff open samples on the counter, and vacuum-packed tins survive a flight home without leaking.
The old dyers' street along the Sorgue canal, four wooden waterwheels still turning against the plane trees. Workshops sell hand-printed indigo cloth, ceramics, leather and silver jewellery; most open 11:00–19:00 and close Sunday and Monday morning.
Provençal faience since 1985: olive-shaped dishes, glazed tians, Anduze vases and hand-painted pitchers, from about €12 for a small bowl to €180 for a large serving platter. The shop crates and ships internationally.
Avignon's luxury spine, running from Place Crillon to Rue Saint-Agricol past 18th-century hôtels particuliers: designer stockists, Puyricard chocolates, milliners and independent labels. Most doors open 10:00–19:00 and stay shut on Sunday.
Café-lined square beside the Hôtel d'Europe with a cluster of galleries and antiquarian print dealers under the plane trees. A natural pause between the Vernet boutiques and the riverside ramparts, with tables in the shade until mid-afternoon.
A hat shop trading since 1860 behind a painted wooden façade, its jewel-box interior stacked with thousands of pieces: Panama straw from around €60, Provençal felt and beaver from €90 upward. The pedestrian street runs on to Place Carnot.
Narrow street of concept stores, vintage rails and independent perfumers, at its busiest 17:00–20:00 as the aperitif crowd arrives. The contrast with the Cap Sud mall out on the southern ring road is the whole argument for shopping intra-muros.
Sunday brocante on the cloister square, roughly 07:00–13:00: enamel advertising signs, Provençal boutis quilts, copper pans, bistro crockery and old linen sheets. The same square holds the flower market on Saturday mornings.
Around twenty dealers under one roof on the island across the Rhône, open weekends roughly 10:00–18:00. Farmhouse tables, garden statuary, 1950s Vallauris pottery and glassware, with shipping arranged for larger finds.
The Provençal fabric house founded at Tarascon in 1938, still printing from a library of 40,000 archived 18th-century woodblocks. Tablecloths from about €70, quilted boutis bags near €120, cotton by the metre from €45.
Wine shop and tasting bar pouring Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas, Vacqueyras and Tavel rosé by the glass from card-operated dispensers, then selling you the bottles you liked. Closed Sunday and Monday.