Beyond the papal walls, Avignon runs two art histories at once: Italian gold-ground panels gathered by a 19th-century cardinal, and a contemporary collection that scandalised Provence. Between them sit twenty theatres and a Vaucluse village of paper and paint.
The Campana collection of Italian primitives — 327 panels from Siena, Florence and Venice, including Botticelli's Virgin and Child, housed in the 14th-century archbishops' palace. Open 10:00–13:00 and 14:00–18:00, closed Tuesdays.
Esprit Calvet's 1810 bequest in the Hôtel de Villeneuve-Martignan, an 18th-century mansion with a garden courtyard. Vernet seascapes, Géricault, Soutine, Camille Claudel bronzes and a silversmithing hall. Closed Tuesdays.
Calvet's stone collection inside the Baroque chapel of the 17th-century Jesuit college on Rue de la République. Gallo-Roman funerary steles, the Tarasque de Noves man-eating monster, Greek and Egyptian pieces under a single barrel vault.
The cobbled dyers' street along the Sorgue canal, with four surviving waterwheels that powered the indienne cloth trade until 1900. Studio galleries, the Théâtre des Halles and plane-tree shade the whole length.
Yvon Lambert's donation of 1,200 contemporary works across two 18th-century hôtels particuliers on Rue Violette. Cy Twombly, Sol LeWitt, Anselm Kiefer, Nan Goldin. Open 11:00–18:00, daily in July, closed Mondays otherwise.
The 1847 Italian-style opera house by Léonard Feuchère, rebuilt after fire, with 1,000 seats and a season of opera, ballet and the Orchestre National Avignon-Provence. The café terraces on the square face its columned facade.
Jean Angladon-Dubrujeaud's townhouse holding the only Van Gogh in Provence — Railway Wagons, 1888 — plus Degas, Modigliani, Picasso and Cézanne, hung among 18th-century furniture in domestic rooms rather than galleries.
The archive of the man who founded the Festival d'Avignon in 1947, run with the Bibliothèque nationale: set models, costumes, and a video library of filmed productions from seven decades of the Cour d'Honneur.
The largest Carthusian monastery in France, founded 1356 by Pope Innocent VI, now a national centre for playwriting residencies. Three cloisters, 40 monks' cells and Matteo Giovannetti's frescoed chapel across the Rhône.
Forty producers under the vertical garden wall designed by Patrick Blanc in 2006. Tuesday to Sunday, 06:00–13:30. Banon goat cheese in chestnut leaves, Camargue bull sausage, oyster bars and the Saturday 11:00 chef demonstration.
Louis Vouland's collection of Provençal decorative arts in a private mansion near the ramparts: 18th-century marquetry, Moustiers and Marseille faience, and canvases by the Provençal school painters Vernet, Seyssaud and Chabaud.
André Benedetto's 1966 theatre, the venue that launched the Festival OFF, still programming political and Occitan-language work. The square outside holds the Saturday flea market and the Gothic Carmelite cloister.