Bern eats like a farm town that happens to run a country. Meringue was invented up the valley in Meiringen, Toblerone was born in the west end, and the Aare-side old town hides restaurants in 13th-century vaulted cellars beneath the arcades.
Bern's open-air market runs Tuesday and Saturday 08:00–18:00 across Bundesplatz and Bärenplatz, with a smaller daily version April–October. Emmental farmers sell Alpkäse, Bernese sausage, and the wrinkled purple Blaue St. Galler potato.
Family truffle-makers since 1919, working under the arcades on the Zytglogge side. The Champagne truffle has a 5-day shelf life because there's no preservative in it. Also the place for Berner Haselnusslebkuchen and Mandelbärli almond bears.
A cheese counter run by affineurs who age their own wheels in a cellar under the square. Ask for Berner Alpkäse AOP at 12, 24 and 36 months side by side, plus Hobelkäse shaved into curls with a Girolle for eating standing up.
A working brewhouse in the old tram shed above the bear park, brewing unfiltered Märzen, a hoppy Bernese lager and a rotating seasonal in copper kettles behind the bar. Terrace looks straight across the Aare at the old town roofline.
The Bernese address for Mandelbärli and the fist-sized Meiringen-style Meringue with double cream from the Emmental. Standing tables face the station concourse; locals eat one with a Schale coffee at 10:00 as a second breakfast.
Lunch under a barrel-vaulted 18th-century wine cellar, 30 metres long with frescoed arches. The kitchen does Berner Platte properly: smoked pork, beef tongue, Gnagi, Bernese sausage and bacon on sauerkraut with dried beans.
Swiss wine barely leaves the country — under 2% is exported. Taste Bielersee Chasselas from 20 minutes north, Twanner from the terraced Jura lakeshore, and red Gamaret grown on the Aare slopes at Oberhofen.
A chalet-panelled room doing Valais-style raclette scraped off the half-wheel at the table, plus Fondue Moitié-Moitié and Chässchnitte. Smaller and rougher than the tourist fondue houses, with the pickled onions made in-house.
A covered food hall beside the station with about 15 counters: Eritrean injera, Peruvian ceviche, Bernese Wurst, Neapolitan pizza and a specialty roaster. Open from 07:00 on weekdays; long shared tables under a glass roof.
Bern eats its Bratwurst grilled over wood and served in a Bürli roll with mustard, standing up under the arcades. The local sausage is the coarse veal Berner Bratwurst; the smoked Landjäger is the walking version.
Bern's serious espresso bar, roasting its own beans and running a bakery that turns out the sourdough used across the old town. The corner terrace sits at the point where Kramgasse meets Theaterplatz, opposite the Casino.
A former school gymnasium turned bar in the Progr arts complex, with a gravel courtyard that fills at aperitivo hour. Swiss craft beer, natural wine and cheap Znacht plates in a room that still has the wall bars bolted up.