Madrid shops in layers: Sunday's chaotic Rastro flea market, century-old family workshops still cutting capes and fans by hand, and the concept stores of Justicia and Chueca. This is where to spend, browse and haggle across three days.
A working neighbourhood market since 1875, its 1960s concrete vaults still packed with fishmongers, butchers and pickle stalls at 7am prices. Open Mon–Sat 09:00–14:00 and 17:00–20:00. Jamón ibérico de bellota runs €90–160/kg; manchego curado around €18/kg.
Fan-makers since 1858, four generations behind the same wooden counter. Hand-painted pericón fans in sandalwood and mother-of-pearl, plus umbrellas, mantillas and walking canes. Open Mon–Sat 09:30–20:00. Machine-printed fans from €12, hand-painted from €60 to €400.
The anti-San-Miguel: a 1944 hall in Lavapiés where second-hand bookstalls sell paperbacks by the kilo alongside Bangladeshi grocers, craft-beer taps and vermouth counters. Open Mon–Sat, most stalls 10:00–15:00 and 18:00–22:00. Books €10/kg.
Since 1904 this tiled shopfront has sold hand-thrown ceramics from Talavera de la Reina, Manises, Puente del Arzobispo and Granada — every piece signed by its workshop. Open Mon–Fri 10:00–13:30 and 17:00–20:00, Sat mornings. Tiles from €8, platters €40–150.
Madrid's luxury spine, from Loewe's flagship at Serrano 34 (leatherwork since 1846) to Spanish names like Adolfo Domínguez and Pedro del Hierro. Shops open 10:00–20:30, most closed Sunday. Loewe Puzzle bags from €2,600; Spanish labels €80–300.
The world's last dedicated Spanish cape maker, cutting loden wool capes by hand since 1901. Picasso, Hemingway, Michael Jackson and Hillary Clinton all own one. Open Mon–Sat 10:00–14:00 and 16:30–20:00. Capes €400–1,200, made to measure in 3–4 weeks.
The design quarter: Do Design and Nac for Scandi-Spanish homeware, Ecoalf's recycled-plastic outerwear on Hortaleza, and independent perfumers on Argensola. Most open 11:00–14:30 and 17:00–21:00. Homeware €25–200, Ecoalf jackets €150–350.
Hat-blockers since 1832 and the oldest hat shop in Madrid, still steaming felt over wooden forms in the back room. Cordobés, boinas, panamas and bowlers in every head size from 53 to 64cm. Open Mon–Fri 10:00–14:00 and 17:00–20:00. Hats €30–250.
Europe's oldest continuously running flea market, trading here since the 1740s below the old tanneries. Sundays and public holidays 09:00–15:00, roughly 1,000 stalls spilling down the hill. Vintage tiles €5–20, leather jackets €25–60, old postcards €1.
Guitar-builders since 1882 and the family that developed the modern classical guitar; Segovia played a Ramírez for four decades. Workshop and showroom open Mon–Fri 10:00–14:00 and 16:30–20:00, Sat mornings. Student models €600, handmade concert guitars €4,000+.
Turrón makers since 1855, still boiling Jijona almond paste in copper pots each autumn. Open daily 10:00–14:00 and 17:00–21:00. Turrón blocks €12–28, marzipan and polvorones by weight; nearby Calle Mayor hides religious-goods shops and old stationers.
Thirty green wooden casetas lining the hill below the Botanical Garden, selling second-hand and antiquarian books since 1925. Open daily roughly 10:00–20:00, all stalls Sunday mornings. Paperbacks €2–5, vintage Spanish film posters and 19th-century plates €20–100.