Nancy is the former capital of the Duchy of Lorraine and one of the finest examples of 18th-century European urban planning — the Place Stanislas, surrounded by gilded wrought-iron gates and twin baroque fountains, is UNESCO World Heritage and arguably the most beautiful public square in France. The place was built between 1752 and 1756 by the Polish king Stanislas Leszczyński, who had been compensated with the Duchy of Lorraine after losing the Polish throne — he transformed his consolation prize into a cultural masterpiece. Nancy also gave the world the Art Nouveau movement: the École de Nancy, led by Émile Gallé, Louis Majorelle and the brothers Daum, produced the finest glass, furniture and ceramics of the movement between 1890 and 1914. The Musée de l'École de Nancy preserves the original studios and their extraordinary output, while the Villa Majorelle (Louis Majorelle's own house) is the finest Art Nouveau domestic interior in France. Nancy is an active student city — 50,000 students keep its bars, café-theatres and jazz clubs animated — and the Lorraine region's distinctive cuisine of quiche lorraine, mirabelle plum tarts and the choucroute tradition makes it one of France's most satisfying culinary destinations.
The 18th-century royal square is enclosed by gilded wrought-iron gates with gilded lanterns — the Hôtel de Ville, the Grand Théâtre, the twin fountains of Amphitrite and Neptune and the Arc Héré triumphal arch create the finest rococo ensemble in France.
🎫 Book tickets via GetYourGuideThe art museum overlooking Place Stanislas has works by Rubens, Caravaggio, Delacroix and the most comprehensive collection of Émile Gallé glass outside the École de Nancy Museum — the Art Nouveau and Art Deco decorative arts are outstanding.
The original quiche lorraine (lardons, eggs, cream — no cheese in the authentic Lorraine version) is taken very seriously in Nancy — the traditional brasseries near Place Stanislas do the best versions, often with a mirabelle tart to follow.
The 1502 Gothic palace of the Dukes of Lorraine has a lace-like flamboyant facade — inside, the Lorraine Museum chronicles the duchy from its medieval origins through the Battle of Nancy (1477) where Charles the Bold of Burgundy was defeated.
The 16th-century parade ground behind the Ducal Palace is lined with elegant 18th-century mansions and leads through the Hemicycle garden to the Governor's Palace — the best evening walk in Nancy after aperitif at a Place Stanislas café.
The preserved studio-villa of the Art Nouveau movement that changed decorative arts forever — Émile Gallé's marquetry mushroom furniture, Louis Majorelle's water lily lamps, Daum brothers' cameo glass vases and the movement's full context, displayed in a period garden.
🎫 Book tickets via GetYourGuideThe most beautiful restaurant in Lorraine — the 1910 Art Nouveau brasserie has original Daum glass, mahogany panelling and stained glass; the choucroute garnie and côte de boeuf have been served under the same gilded ceiling for over a century.
🎫 Book tickets via GetYourGuideLouis Majorelle's own 1902 house is the finest Art Nouveau domestic interior in France — every surface is integrated design, from the iron bannister growing into a tree to the dining room's lily-pad ceiling; visits by guided tour only.
🎫 Book tickets via GetYourGuideNancy's student jazz quarter around Rue Saint-Dizier has live jazz bars open until late — the annual Nancy Jazz Pulsations festival in October brings international acts; the year-round scene benefits from 50,000 students.
30 km from Nancy, the enormous 1703 Château de Lunéville served as a second Versailles for the Dukes of Lorraine — the gardens are free; the restored interiors include Stanislas apartments and Lorraine faïence ceramics collections.
🎫 Book tickets via GetYourGuideAlternatively: Metz 55 km north has one of France's finest Gothic cathedrals and the superlative Centre Pompidou-Metz art space — easily combined with Nancy for a twin-city Lorraine cultural trip.
The Côtes de Toul is France's most northerly red wine appellation — the pinot noir "gris de Toul" rosé and the vin de Moselle white are genuine Lorraine wines enjoyed with a quiche and mirabelle liqueur at a local vigneronne.
Nancy's famous macaron (not the Parisian sandwich macaron but a soft, crunchy almond round) and the mirabelle plum tart are both claimed as Lorraine originals — the Soeurs Macarons on Rue Gambetta has made them since 1792.