Rijeka eats like a border town: Kvarner scampi buzara from the Adriatic, Istrian šurlice with goulash, Hungarian-era pastries and Terrano wine from the Karst. Three days of market halls, konobas and harbourside bars.
The 1914 Art Nouveau fish hall by Vjekoslav Celligoi, with fish-and-shell reliefs by Venetian sculptor Urbano Bottasso, sells Kvarner scampi, sardines, sea bass and octopus from 07:00–14:00 (Sun to 13:00). Kvarner scampi run €40–60/kg.
The two 1880s produce pavilions next to the fish hall stock Kvarner cherries, Krk sheep cheese, prosciutto from Istria and pickled kapari. Cheese stalls give free tastes; Krk cheese runs €18–25/kg, Istrian pršut about €35/kg.
A Rječina-riverside konoba on Titov trg known for maneštra bean-and-corn soup, homemade šurlice and daily catch chalked on the board. Mains €14–24, tasting menu around €45. Booking essential for the six terrace tables.
Rijeka's oldest coffee house, opened 1888 in the Austro-Hungarian style at the Rječina bridge, with marble tables and a shaded terrace. Espresso €1.60, Kvarner-style cakes €3–5, and a rakija list including local travarica.
Start on the Korzo with burek and viška pogača from Mlinar (€2.50–4) and Bajadera nougat from the Kraš shop. Croatian bakeries here open 06:00; the savoury sirnica cheese burek sells out by mid-morning.
A Kružna ulica seafood restaurant in the old town serving škampi na buzaru — Kvarner scampi stewed in white wine, garlic and breadcrumbs, eaten with your hands. Buzara for two runs €45–60; black cuttlefish risotto €16.
Wine bar below Trsat stocking Kvarner and Istrian bottles: Žlahtina from Vrbnik on Krk, Malvazija, and dark Terrano from the Karst. Tasting flights of three glasses €12–18; bottles from €12.
Named for the city's Italian-era name, this konoba plates octopus under the peka bell, brodet fish stew with polenta and Kvarner scampi. Peka must be ordered three hours ahead; expect €22–30 per main.
An hour's drive over the Krk bridge to Vrbnik, home of Žlahtina white wine and Krk sheep cheese. Family cellars like Katunar and Nada pour tastings for €10–20, paired with šurlice pasta and hand-cut pršut.
A thin-crust institution off the Korzo where Rijeka's Italian side shows: wood-fired pizza from €8, plus fritaja with wild asparagus in spring. Cash-friendly, no reservations, and packed with dock workers at lunch.
The 1.7 km Molo Longo breakwater and Karolina bar on the Riva serve Karlovačko and Ožujsko drafts (€3–4) with a view of container cranes and the Kvarner Gulf. Fish sandwiches and grilled sardines €6–10.
West and east of the port, working-class gostionicas serve grilled sardines, šurlice with goulash and homemade travarica herb rakija at half old-town prices. Menus are Croatian-only; mains hover at €10–15.