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Croatia

4 city guides · Europe

Cities in Croatia (4)

Europe
🇭🇷 Croatia

Rijeka

Rijeka is Croatia's largest seaport and third-largest city (116,000 people) — a city on the Kvarner Bay of the Adriatic with a turbulent 20th-century political history: it was simultaneously claimed by Italy and Yugoslavia after WWI, briefly constituted as a separate free city, then taken over by the Italian fascist D'Annunzio (Gabriele D'Annunzio, the poet-soldier who occupied the city with his private army in 1919 and invented many of the theatrical rituals that Mussolini later copied — the Fascist salute, the black shirts, the balcony speeches, the mass rallies), then Italian under the Fascists (1924-1943), German-occupied (1943-1945), and finally Yugoslav. The city was designated European Capital of Culture 2020 (the first Croatian city to receive this title) and used the occasion to transform its industrial waterfront into a cultural infrastructure. Rijeka's defining cultural contribution to the world is the most famous European carnival after Venice — the Rijeka Carnival (Riječki karneval, February, traditionally since 1296 though documented continuously from the 18th century) has the Zvončari (Bell Ringers) — groups of men in animal masks and sheepskin costumes who ring enormous cowbells to drive away winter spirits, a pre-Christian tradition specific to the Kvarner mountains — alongside the International Carnival parade with 100,000+ spectators. The Kvarner Bay around Rijeka has the islands of Krk (the largest Croatian island, connected to the mainland by a bridge), Lošinj (the island with the highest oxygen concentration in Europe, the blue-and-white Mali Lošinj) and Cres (the island with Eurasian griffon vultures breeding on the cliffs), plus Opatija (the 19th-century Habsburg Riviera resort 12 km south of Rijeka, with the finest Belle Époque hotels on the Adriatic).

Europe
🇭🇷 Croatia

Split

Split is Croatia's second city (population 170,000) on the Dalmatian coast of the Adriatic Sea — the city that was literally born inside a Roman emperor's retirement palace, making it the only city in the world whose historic centre is simultaneously a UNESCO World Heritage archaeological site (Diocletian's Palace, designated 1979) and a living residential neighbourhood where 3,000 people live and work in ancient Roman rooms, corridors and colonnaded squares. Diocletian's Palace (built 295-305 AD by the Emperor Diocletian (Gaius Aurelius Valerius Diocletianus — the first Roman emperor to retire from power voluntarily; born in Salona (modern Solin), 6 km north of Split, in 244 AD to Dalmatian parents; the most capable administrative reformer of the late Roman Empire; his tetrarchy system (4 co-emperors) was the most sophisticated governance response to the size problem of running the empire from Rome; on May 1, 305 AD, Diocletian became the first emperor in Roman history to resign the office voluntarily, retiring to his palace to grow cabbages — "If you could show the cabbage that I planted with my own hands, you would no longer talk of empire" — a quotation that defined the Split cabbages joke for 1,700 years)) as a 38,500 m² walled complex of quality so high that the walls (2 m thick, 25 m high on the seaward side) stood for 1,700 years without major deterioration; when the Roman Empire collapsed and the nearby city of Salona was destroyed by Avar raids in the 7th century, the refugees moved into the palace and built an entire medieval city within the walls. The result: the original Roman basement halls (the hypogeum) are perfectly preserved; the original temple of Jupiter became the baptistry; the mausoleum of Diocletian became Split's cathedral; the Romans' colonnaded peristyle square is Split's main social gathering point; and 3,000 people's apartments are built directly onto and into the ancient Roman walls.

Europe
🇭🇷 Croatia

Zagreb

Zagreb (Загреб; population 1.14 million in the greater metropolitan area, 800,000 in the city proper; the capital and largest city of Croatia (Hrvatska); at 122 m altitude on the southern slopes of the Medvednica Mountain (the "Bear Mountain" — 1,033 m, the highest point of the Zagreb metropolitan area) overlooking the Sava River floodplain to the south; 350 km from Vienna (5h by train), 280 km from Budapest (3h by train) and 250 km from Ljubljana (2h by train): the most accessible capital of the former Yugoslav republics from Western Europe) is one of the most historically layered capitals in Central Europe: the city was founded in 1094 CE when the Hungarian king Ladislaus I (László I) established the Kaptol ("chapter town" — the canonical chapter of the Zagreb Diocese, centred on the Zagreb Cathedral) as the seat of the newly created Diocese of Zagreb (the Hungarian Kingdom's ecclesiastical frontier with the Byzantine Empire): the rival settlement of Gradec (the "hill town" — the civilian and commercial settlement on the neighbouring Grič Hill, established 1242 by the Golden Bull of Béla IV granting Gradec the status of a free royal city after the Mongol invasion of 1241): the two medieval settlements of Kaptol and Gradec (separated only by the Medvešćak stream (now the Tkalčićeva Street)) were rivals for 600 years (the civil wars between Kaptol and Gradec were a recurring feature of Zagreb history) before being unified into a single city in 1851 by the Croatian ban (viceroy) Josip Jelačić. Zagreb is notable for the extraordinary concentration of high-quality museums in a compact, walkable area (the "museum mile" of the Donji Grad (Lower Town) and the closely concentrated Upper Town (Gornji Grad) of the Kaptol and Grič hills): the Museum of Broken Relationships (Muzej prekinutih veza — the winner of the Council of Europe Museum Prize 2011: the most original museum concept in Europe, displaying personal objects donated by people around the world with their stories of ended relationships) and the Croatian Naive Art Museum (Muzej naivne umetnosti — the world's finest collection of Croatian Naive Art (the "Hlebine school" — the peasant painters of the Hlebine village in the Podravina region of Slavonia who, from the 1930s onward, produced an internationally celebrated artistic tradition of coloured glass painting (the "podpaklir" technique — painting on the underside of glass) depicting the village life of the Croatian peasant community with an intensity of colour and formal complexity that earned their work places in major museum collections worldwide).