Salzburg eats between the Alps and the Salzach: monastery breweries pouring from wooden barrels, a daily market of Pinzgauer cheese and Bauernkrapfen, and the two-sausage Bosna sold from a passage counter since 1950. Three days of markets, Wirtshäuser and schnapps.
Salzburg's daily produce market fills Universitätsplatz behind the Kollegienkirche: Pinzgauer mountain cheese, Bauernkrapfen, smoked Landjäger and hot Käsekrainer eaten standing. Trading Mon-Fri 06:00-19:00, Saturday until 15:00.
Hidden in a passage at Getreidegasse 33, this two-metre counter has sold one thing since 1950: the Bosna — two thin bratwurst in a griddled white roll with raw onion, parsley and a curry-paprika blend. Cash only, no seats.
Paul Fürst invented the Mozartkugel here in 1890 and the family still hand-rolls them on a stick: pistachio marzipan, nougat, dark chocolate, silver-blue foil. Sit in the Alter Markt café over a Fürst-Torte and a Melange.
Monastery brewery in Mülln pouring unfiltered Märzen straight from wooden barrels into stone Krügerl you rinse yourself at the fountain. The halls seat 1,400; Schmankerlgang stalls sell Schweinsbraten, pretzels and Bierradi.
Austria's oldest coffee house has been serving on Alter Markt since 1700. Order an Einspänner or Melange, pick a slice from the Kuchenmädchen's tray, and take the wooden gallery upstairs. Open daily from 07:00.
Riverside Wirtshaus below the Mülln steps, cooking since 1663: Salzburger Bierfleisch braised in Augustiner beer, Backhendl fried in a copper pan, Kaspressknödel in beef broth. The 90 seats fill by 12:30 — book ahead.
The Salzburg house of the Vienna original, on the right bank facing the Altstadt. Original Sacher-Torte arrives with unsweetened whipped cream; the terrace over the Salzach is the better seat in summer.
Loud, wood-panelled Gasthaus in a former chapel on Priesterhausgasse, packed with locals for Kaspressknödelsuppe, Schweinsbraten with Semmelknödel and a Kaiserschmarrn large enough for two.
Thursday-only farmers' market around the Andräkirche on Mirabellplatz, running since 1906 from 05:00 to 13:00. Roughly 200 stalls: Bauernbutter, sourdough loaves, Speck, Erdäpfelkäse and Schranne sausages eaten standing.
Riverside fishmonger at Hanuschplatz where a hatch sells Fischsemmeln straight to the pavement — pickled herring, smoked trout or fried Backfisch in a Kaisersemmel, eaten on the Salzach wall opposite the Altstadt cliffs.
Family Likörmanufaktur at Getreidegasse 39, macerating since 1903 in the room behind the bar. Vogelbeer, Zirben pine schnapps and the winter Orangenpunsch are poured at a standing counter of dark wood.
Salzburg's wheat-beer brewery in Schallmoos, brewing on site since 1901. Hefeweizen, dark Weisse and seasonal Bock come with Brettljause boards and beer-braised Grammelknödel under the Sudwerk's vaults.