Lucknow keeps two histories in the same skyline: the Persianate opulence of the Nawabs of Awadh, and the ruins of the 1857 siege that ended them. Three days trace it from Asaf-ud-Daula's 1784 famine-relief architecture to Begum Hazrat Mahal's rebellion.
Built 1784 by Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula as famine relief — nobles demolished by night what labourers built by day, for four years. Its 50m central hall has no beams or pillars. Open 06:00–17:00, closed Muharram days.
The 18m Turkish Gate of 1784, modelled on the Bab-i-Humayun at Constantinople — hence 'Rumi', of Rome/Byzantium. Built of lakhauri brick and lime plaster with no iron or timber; the lantern on top was once oil-lit nightly.
Muhammad Ali Shah's 1838 tomb-imambara, hung with Belgian chandeliers and gilt mirrors that earned it 'Palace of Lights'. Inside lie the Nawab and his mother; the silver-throne taziya replicates Karbala. Open 06:00–17:00.
An 1838 baradari beside a tank, holding life-size oil portraits of all eleven Nawabs of Awadh, several by European court painters. The canvases use forced perspective — the subject's feet appear to turn as you walk past.
Shell-pocked ruins of the 87-day siege of 1857, where about 3,000 sheltered and fewer than 1,000 walked out. The Union Jack flew here without lowering until 1947. Grounds open sunrise–sunset; museum in the cellars 09:00–17:00, closed Monday.
Claude Martin's 1800 mausoleum-palace, the only school ever awarded a battle honour — its boys defended the Residency in 1857. The Frenchman lies in the basement crypt, as his will required, to keep the building from confiscation.
Uttar Pradesh's oldest museum (1863), strongest on Mathura-school Kushan sculpture, Gupta bronzes and a Buddhist gallery of Sarnath pieces. Also holds an Egyptian mummy. Open 10:30–16:30, closed Monday and gazetted holidays.
Domed tomb of Ghazi-ud-Din Haider, first King of Awadh, styled on Imam Ali's shrine at Najaf. Rebel forces held it as a strongpoint until Campbell stormed it in November 1857; his troops found the interior chandeliers still hanging.
Wajid Ali Shah's 1850 pleasure-court, meant to be the eighth wonder — Lakhi Gate, Safed Baradari and the Nawab's zenana survive amid later bungalows. Nine years after completion the British exiled him to Calcutta and gutted it.
The old walled quarter behind Akbari Gate, where chikan embroidery arrived with Nur Jahan's Mughal court and 200,000 artisans still stitch. Attar shops here have traded ittar since the Nawabi era, distilling in copper degs.
Wajid Ali Shah's walled garden villa, site of the bloodiest hour of 1857 — around 2,000 sepoys were killed inside on 16 November when the 93rd Highlanders breached the wall. The bullet-torn gateway stands; the grounds are now a botanical institute.
An English-baroque hunting lodge of 1800 copied from Seaton Delaval in Northumberland, wrecked by shelling in 1857 — Henry Havelock died here that November. Only façade walls and chimney stacks remain, standing over the Gomti.