Lucknow in 3 days: where 20,000 famine workers built a labyrinth mosque in 1784, where the British Residency siege lasted 87 days in 1857 with the walls still showing cannonball scars, where the last Nawab wrote 14,000 poems and invented a form of chess before the British exiled him to Calcutta, and where a one-armed chef developed a 160-spice kebab so soft a toothless king could eat it.