Brunei shopping runs on two speeds: air-conditioned malls where prices are fixed and polite, and open-air tamu markets where Iban traders sell jungle ferns and river fish at dawn. In between sit the songket weavers and brass casters who still supply the palace.
The capital's open-air market on the Kianggeh canal, trading daily from 06:00 to around 17:00. Stalls sell jungle ferns (pucuk paku), buah kembayau, wild honey, kuih in banana leaf and songkok caps. Most items BND$1-5; bring small notes.
Riverside hawker row a five-minute walk from Tamu Kianggeh, where market traders eat. Nasi katok (rice, fried chicken, sambal) still runs about BND$1.50-2, satay 60 cents a stick, fresh sugarcane juice BND$1.50. Cash only, no alcohol anywhere in Brunei.
Riverside centre on Jalan Residency where apprentices learn songket weaving, silverwork, brass casting and rattan basketry. The ground-floor shop sells kris blades, silver betel-nut boxes and woven mengkuang mats. Open Mon-Thu and Sat, roughly 08:00-17:00.
Water-village workshops reached by BND$1 water taxi from the waterfront jetty, where families still hand-beat brass gongs, cannon replicas and kettles. Buying direct cuts roughly a third off gift-shop prices, and you watch the piece finished.
The downtown row of textile houses selling Brunei songket — silk woven with gold-wrapped thread in jong sarat patterns once reserved for royalty. A full ceremonial length runs BND$800-3,000; machine-blend sarongs start near BND$60.
Kiulap is BSB's boutique district — low-rise shophouses of independent fashion labels, sneaker resellers and perfume houses. This cafe anchors the strip and is where local designers work; flat white about BND$5.50, lunch plates BND$10-16.
Brunei's flagship six-floor mall, open daily 10:00-22:00, with a cinema, department store and dozens of modest-fashion and hijab boutiques. Prices are fixed and haggling is not done; a tailored baju kurung runs BND$80-250.
The nightly food-and-goods market behind Gadong, busiest 17:30-22:00, with grilled chicken wings at 80 cents, ambuyat ingredients, kuih trays and cheap household stalls. Sellers wrap everything to go; almost no seating.
The royal-foundation shopping complex beside the waterfront, two blocks of gold jewellers, watch dealers and duty-free electronics under Moorish arches. Gold is sold by weight against the daily fix, so the markup is small and printed on the receipt.
The best-known ambuyat house in the capital, serving the sago starch with chandas sticks and cencaluk dips. A set for two runs about BND$25-35; they also sell packs of dried sago flour to take home for a few dollars.
The southbound Jalan Tutong strip of roadside stalls and small shops selling Dusun-woven baskets, tudung dulang food covers, gasing tops and belutak. Baskets BND$25-90 depending on weave tightness; almost no tourists here.
Long-running local bookshop stocking Brunei-published histories, Jawi-script stationery, Malay-English dictionaries and maps of Kampong Ayer that make flat, cheap souvenirs. Most titles BND$8-30, closes around 21:00.