3 Days in Bandar Seri Begawan — Essential Highlights

The speedboat from BSB waterfront through the Brunei Bay mangroves (the most extensive mangrove system in Southeast Asia — Rhizophora, Avicennia and Bruguiera species at the tidal edge). The proboscis monkey (Nasalis larvatus): the most extraordinary-looking primate in Southeast Asia — the endemic Borneo species with the large pendulous banana-shaped nose on the males (the nose amplifies the honking alarm call and is a sexual selection signal). Most easily seen from the boat in the mangrove edges at dawn and dusk. The long-tailed macaque (Macaca fascicularis): the "crab-eating macaque" visible washing food in the tidal channels.

The aluminum canopy walkway suspended between the emergent trees at 50m above the forest floor: the canopy layer where 90% of the Borneo rainforest biodiversity occurs (the dense mat of orchids, ferns, mosses and vines that colonize every available surface of the emergent tree crowns). The Borneo orchids (epiphytic — growing on the tree surfaces rather than in soil: thousands of species). The Bornean orangutan (Pongo pygmaeus): the most wanted sighting in Temburong (sightings are possible but not guaranteed in the national park). The Borneo hornbill (the rhinoceros hornbill — Buceros rhinoceros: the largest hornbill species in Borneo, with the distinctive upturned red-and-yellow casque above the bill) calling overhead.

The Temburong River at the national park headquarters: the pristine mountain stream fed by the rainfall of the unlogged Temburong watershed (the most upstream and most pristine river system in Brunei — the water is considered drinkable directly from the stream). The deep pools: up to 2m depth with the crystal-clear water visible to the sandy bottom. The freshwater fish (the river carp (Tor species — the "mahseer": the most important freshwater sport fish in Southeast Asia) and the small endemic Borneo cyprinids visible in the clear pools). The sensation of swimming in a Borneo rainforest stream with the canopy 60m above.

The synchronous firefly (Pteroptyx tener): the firefly of the mangrove trees of Southeast Asia that flashes in perfect synchrony (all individuals in the same tree flash simultaneously, creating a living Christmas-tree effect that can be seen from 200m). The mechanism: the males synchronize their flash to maximize the probability that females will respond. The Brunei mangroves have some of the best synchronous firefly populations accessible as a day-trip destination in Southeast Asia. The display: thousands of points of light flashing in perfect unison in the darkness, reflected in the black mangrove water.

The Palace of the Light of Faith: 1,788 rooms, 257 bathrooms, 200 car garages (for the Sultan's estimated 7,000 vehicles including hundreds of Rolls-Royces, Ferraris and Bentleys), 5 swimming pools, banquet hall (5,000 guests), private mosque (1,500 capacity), helipad (5 helicopters), polo pony stabling. Built 1984: USD 1.4 billion (the most expensive palace construction of the 20th century). Designed by Filipino architect Leandro Locsin in the Bruneian Islamic style. Open to the public 3 days per year only (Eid al-Fitr / Hari Raya Aidilfitri): exterior viewing year-round from the road.

Built 1994 for the Sultan's silver jubilee. The 29 golden domes: one dome per Sultan from the founding of the Brunei Sultanate to Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah (the 29th Sultan). 4 minarets at 58m height each. Italian marble floors. Capacity: 4,000 worshippers inside + 2,000 in the grounds. At night: the most extensive architectural lighting installation in Brunei — the 29 golden domes glowing against the night sky: the most photographed building in Brunei after dark.

The Islamic Arts Gallery: the Bruneian sultanate's Islamic art collection assembled over 500 years. The Quran manuscripts (16th–18th century hand-illuminated Qurans — the most elaborate gold-leaf and ultramarine blue illumination in the Malay Islamic manuscript tradition). The keris collection: the keris (the asymmetric Malay dagger with the waved "dapur" blade): the pamor (the nickel-iron meteorite + iron composite blade — the meteoritic iron was the most valuable metal in the Malay world, the pamor's "woodgrain" pattern is unique to each blade). The Malay Technology Museum: the binalu proa (the traditional Brunei sailing vessel) and the traditional boat-building workshop.

Kolo mee: thin egg noodles cooked al dente, tossed in the sauce (chicken fat + soy sauce + sesame oil: the Hakka-Cantonese immigrant recipe brought to Brunei in the 19th century, adapted to halal). Topped with char siu (red-roasted chicken (halal version of the Cantonese pork original)) and wontons. The kopitiam (the Chinese-Malay coffee shop): the most important breakfast-and-lunch institution of the Southeast Asian Chinese community. Kueh ondeh-ondeh: the pandan-green glutinous rice ball (the green from pandan leaf juice) filled with palm sugar that melts and bursts in the mouth, rolled in grated coconut.