Suva shops differently from resort Fiji: prices are set for locals, not cruise passengers. Bargain over sandalwood soap at the Handicraft Centre, buy hand-stencilled masi bark cloth by the metre, and browse Indo-Fijian sari houses along Cumming Street.
Two floors of dalo, cassava, bundled kava roots and reef fish, busiest Saturday from 06:00. Ground floor produce, upper level yaqona and spices. Kava bundles run FJ$25-60/kg; a bunch of rourou costs FJ$2. Open Mon-Sat 06:00-18:00.
Corrugated-roof warren of stalls behind the municipal market selling sulu jaba, printed bula shirts, second-hand denim and plastic housewares. Cotton sulu from FJ$8, bula shirts FJ$15-35. Cash only, no fixed prices.
Government-run outlet stocking pottery from Nakabuta village, masi from Vatulele, tanoa kava bowls and woven voivoi mats at fixed, labelled prices — useful as a benchmark before bargaining elsewhere. Small tanoa FJ$60-120.
Open-sided hall of about forty stalls near the seawall selling war clubs, cannibal forks, shell necklaces and coconut-oil soap. Vendors open with roughly double the going rate. Carved forks FJ$15-40 after haggling.
Narrow one-way lane of Indo-Fijian jewellers, electronics and watch dealers — Prouds, Tappoos and a dozen family shops. 22-carat gold sold by weight against the daily rate; black pearls from Savusavu FJ$120 upward. Mon-Fri 08:30-17:00, Sat to 13:00.
Four-level department store with cosmetics, Fijian-made Pure Fiji body products and a top-floor food court doing curry thali and lovo plates for around FJ$12. Air-conditioned, card accepted, tax-free counter on level one for departing visitors.
Renwick Road's upstairs tailors cut made-to-measure sulu jaba, bula shirts and jacket-style chamba in printed cotton, usually ready in 48 hours. Fabric from FJ$9/metre in the shops below; making up a shirt runs FJ$35-70.
Fiji's best-known cosmetics maker, blending coconut, dilo and sikeci oils; the Suva outlet sells seconds and bulk sizes cheaper than airport branches. Coconut sugar scrub around FJ$28, gift boxes FJ$60.
Small gallery and shop showing contemporary Fijian painters and printmakers alongside stencilled masi panels. Framed prints FJ$80-300, unframed masi squares from FJ$45. Weekday hours 09:00-16:00, closed Sundays.
University of the South Pacific's bookshop carries Pacific-published titles you will not find offshore — Fijian dictionaries, IPS press ethnographies and Vanua Books poetry. Paperbacks FJ$15-45. Open to the public, term-time weekdays.
Suva's main mall on Renwick Road: supermarket basement stocking Fijian chilli sauces, Bula Coffee and honey, plus clothing floors and a cinema. Bula Coffee 250g about FJ$18. Daily 08:00-20:00, Sunday from 10:00.
Late-afternoon stalls on the seafront lawn where island vendors sell woven baskets, salusalu garlands and pandanus fans after the town shops close. Baskets FJ$20-55, garlands FJ$10.