Chicago (population 2.7 million in the city, 9.5 million in the Chicago metropolitan area — the third largest city in the United States, behind New York and Los Angeles) sits on the southwestern shore of Lake Michigan and is one of the great American cities: the birthplace of the skyscraper (the Home Insurance Building, 1885 — the first building to use a steel skeleton frame structure, designed by William Le Baron Jenney), the home of the Chicago School of architecture (Louis Sullivan, Dankmar Adler, Daniel Burnham — the architects who invented modern urban design), and the city whose 1871 Great Fire (the fire that burned 17,400 buildings in 27 hours, killing 300 people and leaving 100,000 homeless) paradoxically made it the most architecturally innovative city in the world (because it had to rebuild everything at once, which gave the Chicago architects the opportunity to invent the modern city from scratch). Chicago is also the birthplace of Chicago Blues (the electric amplified urban blues of Muddy Waters, Howlin' Wolf and Buddy Guy — the direct parent of rock 'n' roll), Chicago house music (the electronic dance music genre invented at the Warehouse club by DJ Frankie Knuckles in 1977), Chicago Deep Dish pizza (the pizza invented at Pizzeria Uno in 1943 — the deep casserole-pan pizza with the thick buttery crust), and the home of the Chicago Bulls dynasty (Michael Jordan's six NBA championships) and the Chicago Cubs (the 2016 World Series win ending a 108-year drought).
The Chicago Architecture Foundation (CAF) River Cruise (Michigan Avenue Bridge — the most essential Chicago experience: the 90-minute boat tour on the Chicago River through the downtown Loop, guided by CAF docents who explain the history and design of the 50+ landmark buildings visible from the water (the Wrigley Building (1924), the Tribune Tower (1925, the neo-Gothic skyscraper with stones from famous world buildings embedded in its base), the Marina City "corncob" towers (Bertrand Goldberg, 1964), the IBM Building (Mies van der Rohe, 1972), the Aqua Tower (Jeanne Gang, 2010 — the undulating concrete balconies mimicking the topography of Lake Michigan)). The best introduction to Chicago architecture available anywhere.
🎫 Book tickets via GetYourGuideMillennium Park (the 24.5-acre park on the lakefront at the edge of the Loop: the Cloud Gate (Anish Kapoor, 2006 — the 110-ton polished steel ellipsoid nicknamed "The Bean" that reflects the Chicago skyline and the visitor's own warped image in its concave surface — the most visited sculpture in the United States), the Crown Fountain (Jaume Plensa, 2004 — the two 15m glass block towers projecting video of Chicago residents' faces, with water streaming from their lips in warm months), and the Jay Pritzker Pavilion (Frank Gehry, 2004 — the outdoor band shell whose trellis of stainless steel pipes carries a distributed sound system 4,000 seats into the Great Lawn).
🎫 Book tickets via GetYourGuideThe Art Institute of Chicago (Michigan Avenue — one of the oldest and largest art museums in the United States: the Impressionist and Post-Impressionist collection is the finest in the world outside France (the largest collection of Georges Seurat's work outside Paris — including "A Sunday on La Grande Jatte" (1884–86, the most famous painting in the museum, the subject of the Stephen Sondheim musical "Sunday in the Park with George")), Grant Wood's "American Gothic" (1930), Edward Hopper's "Nighthawks" (1942), Pablo Picasso's "The Old Guitarist" (1903–04) and the Thorne Miniature Rooms (68 miniature rooms depicting European and American interior design history at 1:12 scale — the most unusual collection in any major art museum).
🎫 Book tickets via GetYourGuideLou Malnati's (multiple locations — the quintessential Chicago deep dish pizza: the thick, buttery, cornmeal-enriched crust (pressed up the sides of the deep round casserole pan), the layer of sliced mozzarella (placed directly on the crust, under the toppings), the toppings (sweet Italian sausage is the classic), and the chunky crushed San Marzano tomato sauce on top. The pizza takes 45 minutes to cook and is eaten with a fork and knife. Lou Malnati's (1971) and Pizzeria Uno (1943, the restaurant that claims to have invented the deep dish) are the two founding institutions.
🎫 Book tickets via GetYourGuideThe Field Museum of Natural History (Museum Campus — the research and natural history museum: Sue the T. Rex (the most complete Tyrannosaurus rex skeleton ever found, 90% complete, found in South Dakota in 1990 by fossil hunter Sue Hendrickson — the museum paid $8.3 million for the skeleton in 1997, the highest price ever paid for a fossil at the time), the Inside Ancient Egypt permanent exhibition (the full-scale ancient Egyptian tomb with 23 human mummies and the daily life of ancient Egypt reconstructed), and the DNA Discovery Center (a working genetics laboratory where visitors can watch scientists extract ancient DNA from museum specimens).
🎫 Book tickets via GetYourGuideNavy Pier (the 1km pier extending into Lake Michigan, built in 1916 as a municipal pier for cargo and passenger ships, converted to a public entertainment and event center in 1995: the 196-foot Ferris wheel (the Centennial Wheel, 2016 — an enclosed, climate-controlled gondola Ferris wheel inspired by the 264-foot Ferris wheel built for the 1893 World's Columbian Exposition in Chicago), the Chicago Shakespeare Theater, and the most dramatic view of the downtown Chicago skyline from water level — the lakefront skyline of Chicago (the skyscraper city at the edge of a freshwater sea) is the most dramatic urban skyline in the interior of North America.
🎫 Book tickets via GetYourGuideThe Chicago Riverwalk (the pedestrian promenade along both banks of the Chicago River Main Branch through the Loop — the most successful urban waterfront development in North America: opened in its current form in 2015, the Riverwalk integrates restaurants, bars, kayak rentals, water taxis, a floating garden (the Jetty — the cluster of floating vegetable garden beds), and the Vietnam Veterans Memorial plaza (the 9m glass wall with 2,959 names of Illinois casualties) into a 2.65km continuous pedestrian experience below street level, under the Lake Shore Drive bridges.
🎫 Book tickets via GetYourGuideBuddy Guy's Legends (700 S. Wabash Ave — the club owned by Buddy Guy (the Chicago Blues guitarist and Rock and Roll Hall of Fame inductee, the last living link to the original Chicago Blues era of Muddy Waters and Howlin' Wolf) that is the most famous blues club in the United States: live Chicago Blues seven nights a week, and Buddy Guy himself performs at the club every January (his birthday month). The wall of signed guitars, the intimate venue (capacity 500) and the bar serving Chicago craft beer make it the defining music venue of the city.
🎫 Book tickets via GetYourGuideThe Chicago L (the Elevated Railway — the 163-km urban rail system of Chicago, the oldest continuously operating elevated rail system in the United States, opened 1892: the Loop (the rectangular elevated track that gives the downtown district its name — the trains literally loop around the rectangular grid of the business district) is a functioning piece of 19th-century infrastructure still carrying 300,000 passengers daily. Riding the Brown, Pink or Orange Line through the Loop gives the most cinematic view of Chicago (the iron lattice structure at eye level with office buildings, the sparks from the steel wheels on steel rails on the tight curves at the corners of the Loop).
🎫 Book tickets via GetYourGuideWicker Park (the neighborhood 3km northwest of the Loop on the Blue Line: the center of Chicago's independent music, art and food scene — the neighborhood where Liz Phair and Smashing Pumpkins emerged in the early 1990s, now with the highest concentration of independent restaurants and boutiques in Chicago. The intersection of North, Milwaukee and Damen Avenues (the "Six Corners") is the center: the vintage clothing shops, independent record stores, the Flat Iron Arts Building (the Flatiron-shaped building at 1579 N. Milwaukee with artist studios and galleries) and the brunch restaurants that define Chicago weekend culture.
🎫 Book tickets via GetYourGuideThe Chicago-style hot dog (the most codified regional hot dog in the United States: a Vienna Beef all-beef hot dog in a steamed poppy seed bun, "dragged through the garden" with seven specific toppings — yellow mustard, neon green sweet relish, chopped raw onion, tomato wedges, pickle spear, sport peppers and a dash of celery salt. The iron rule: NEVER ketchup (adding ketchup to a Chicago hot dog is considered a breach of civic decorum). Portillo's (the Chicago institution, River North location) is the most famous Chicago hot dog restaurant, opened 1963 by Dick Portillo from a trailer called "The Dog House."
🎫 Book tickets via GetYourGuideThe Chicago Italian Beef sandwich (the sandwich that defines Chicago street food equally with the hot dog: thin-sliced seasoned roast beef, cooked in its own juices (the "gravy" — the concentrated beef broth with garlic, oregano, basil and red pepper), piled on a long Italian roll and dipped (briefly immersed) in the warm gravy until the bread is saturated. Ordered "wet" (fully dipped), "dry" (not dipped) or "soaked" (left in the gravy until it collapses). Topped with either sweet peppers (giardini) or hot giardiniera (the Chicago condiment — the pickled sport peppers, celery, carrots and cauliflower in oil). Al's Beef (1079 W. Taylor Street — the original 1938 location in the Italian neighborhood of Little Italy) is the oldest and most authentic.
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