Antigua eats between three volcanoes: stews thickened with toasted pepitas, cacao ground by hand, coffee grown on the slopes above town. Three days run from 6am market comedores to rooftop taprooms.
The city's working market behind the craft market, open 06:00–18:00 daily. Follow the comedor aisle for atol de elote and chuchitos at Q5–10, then the herb stalls selling loroco, chipilín and miltomate used in Guatemalan stews.
A smoke-filled patio grill on 3a Avenida Sur where half a chicken cooked over wood coals arrives with black beans, guacamol and hand-patted tortillas for around Q45. Open 07:00–21:00; the pepián pot sells out by mid-afternoon.
An organic farm on 5a Avenida Sur, ten minutes' walk south of the centre. Wander the vegetable beds and goat pens, then eat at the open-air kitchen: wood-fired pizza, farm salads and cold-pressed juice, served 08:00–17:00.
A 19th-century sweet shop on 4a Calle Oriente, shelves stacked with dulces típicos — canillitas de leche, cocadas, mazapán and candied squash in syrup. Sold by the piece from about Q8; the counter closes at 18:30 sharp.
A working finca 15 minutes north of town. The plantation tour walks the arabica rows, the wet mill and the drying patios before the roasting room, ending in a cupping session with the estate's own beans. Tours daily from 09:00.
A decades-old dining room on 5a Avenida Norte built around caldo real, a saffron-tinted chicken broth served with rice, avocado and chilli on the side. The queso fundido with chorizo and longaniza arrives bubbling in clay.
A delicatessen and garden café on 6a Avenida Sur making its own chocolate, jams and salted caramel, sold at the front counter. The courtyard behind serves tartines, Guatemalan cheese boards and cardamom cake until 18:00.
A small kitchen devoted to the pre-Hispanic canon: kaq'ik, the Q'eqchi' turkey broth with achiote and cobán chilli, alongside jocón, revolcado and hilachas, each served with rice and tamalitos wrapped in maxán leaf.
The workshop on 4a Calle Oriente roasts, peels and stone-grinds criollo cacao by hand, then tempers it into bars you take away. Sessions at 10:00, 13:00 and 16:00; the café pours cacao-husk tea and chilli drinking chocolate.
A shop-front comedor on 5a Avenida Norte with one long table hidden behind the sweets counter. The menú del día — soup, pepián or hilachas, tortillas and rosa de jamaica — runs about Q40 and stops when the pot empties.
A three-storey taproom on 4a Calle Oriente pouring roughly 20 Guatemalan craft beers, including its own stouts and hop-forward ales. Pints from Q35, four-glass flights Q60; the top floor opens onto the volcano skyline at sunset.
Carts fire up along 5a Avenida Norte and the north side of the square after dark: shucos — grilled sausage in a split roll with guacamol and cabbage — at Q15, plus elotes locos, garnachas and plátanos en mole from the atol ladies.