Lima eats better than almost anywhere in the Americas: 4,000 potato varieties, Japanese and Cantonese migrant kitchens, and cold-current fish cured in lime at noon. Three days of markets, huariques, chifa and pisco, from Surquillo to Barranco.
Lima's chef-supply market, open 07:00–17:00 daily across Vía Expresa from Miraflores. Stalls stack lucuma, chirimoya, granadilla, 30 potato types, aji amarillo paste and rocoto. Juice counters blend maracuyá for S/6.
A Barranco cebichería since 1980, walls papered with football pennants. Ceviche mixto, tiradito and arroz con mariscos come in portions built for two; kitchen closes at 17:00 and never opens for dinner. Cash preferred.
The wholesale fruit terminal on Av. Nicolás Ayllón, 4,000+ stalls trading Amazon produce: camu camu, aguaje, cocona, copoazú and 40 mango varieties. Peak trading is dawn, but afternoon stalls sell single kilos and cut fruit.
Barranco's temple of criollo home cooking on Av. San Martín. Cau cau, ají de gallina, escabeche de pescado and the famed cabrito arrive in enamel bowls sized for sharing. Handwritten menu changes with the market.
A 1960s chifa on Jr. Ucayali in Lima's Chinatown, the oldest in the Americas. Wantán frito, arroz chaufa and tallarín saltado carry the Cantonese-Peruvian fusion that gave Peru its soy-and-ginger backbone. Dim sum from 09:00.
Grimanesa Vargas grilled beef-heart anticuchos on a Miraflores street corner for 40 years before moving indoors to Ignacio Merino 466. Skewers arrive charred, brushed with ají panca, with potato and choclo. Opens 18:00 most days.
A pisco bar and tasting room on Jr. 28 de Julio with 100+ labels split by grape: quebranta, italia, torontel, acholado. Flights explain why Peruvian pisco is unaged and never diluted. Chilcano and pisco punch on tap.
Tomás Matsufuji's six-stool counter at Av. Angamos Este 886, Surquillo. One pass, one cook: ceviche, chicharrón de pescado and arroz chaufa in a S/16 combo that put a street stall on Latin America's 50 Best list.
Since 1960 on Jr. Chancay, the sandwich counter that codified the Limeño breakfast: butifarra with jamón del país, and pan con chicharrón — fried pork belly, sweet potato and salsa criolla — on a French roll. Opens 07:30.
Mitsuharu Tsumura's Nikkei flagship on Calle San Martín 399, where Japanese technique meets Amazonian ingredients — 50-day-aged fish, paiche, nigiri glazed in ají. Named No.1 in the World's 50 Best Restaurants 2025.
A working neighbourhood market on Av. Sáenz Peña with cheap menú counters, emoliente carts and picarones — squash-and-sweet-potato doughnut rings fried to order and drenched in chancaca syrup. Six rings for S/8.
Aarón Díaz's bar on Av. Pardo y Aliaga, ranked among the World's 50 Best Bars, building drinks from Peruvian botanicals: coca leaf, muña, chuncho cacao and pisco infusions served in ceramic vessels. Opens 18:00.