Ljubljana in 3 days: the compact Slovenian capital where one architect redesigned an entire city into a humane pedestrian paradise in the 1930s–50s, where four bronze dragons guard a bridge to an old town that runs its entire administration without a single car, where a 1953 cream cake is still made from the same recipe in the same hotel, and where a 14,000-year-old glacial lake reflects a church on an island that never touches the shore.