Trondheim eats off the fjord and the farms behind it: klippfisk and king crab at Ravnkloa, sodd and rømmegrøt in 18th-century timber inns, Røros butter on Michelin plates, and craft beer in wharfhouse cellars over the Nidelva.
Trondheim's harbourside fish market at the foot of Munkegata, selling klippfisk, cold-water prawns, salmon and king crab over the counter. The café behind it serves a creamy fiskesuppe with fish cakes from 09:00, Mon–Sat.
A crooked 1791 coaching inn on Øvre Bakklandet, painted mustard yellow and crammed with old china. The kitchen is known for fish soup, trøndersodd and rømmegrøt, with around 40 Norwegian aquavits lined up behind the bar.
Sourdough bakery inside a 19th-century brick warehouse where skillingsboller and skoleboller come out warm through the afternoon. Cardamom buns, open shrimp sandwiches and filter coffee, with courtyard tables facing the Nidelva.
A pub dug into the timber cellar of a Nidelva wharfhouse, with the back room floating on a moored barge that shifts underfoot. Around 20 taps lean Norwegian craft, plus cured meats and cheese boards from Trøndelag farms.
Norway's oldest inn, a 1739 timber tavern relocated to the Sverresborg open-air museum. The menu is pure Trøndelag: sodd of mutton and dumplings, rømmegrøt with cured lamb, flatbrød and lefse baked on the premises.
A bookshop-café on Kongens gate pouring precise filter coffee and serving brunch plates, house granola and open rye sandwiches. It slides into a low-lit natural wine bar once the afternoon light goes.
The glass-roofed palm garden of the 1870 Britannia Hotel, where afternoon tea arrives on tiered stands with Trøndelag cheeses, scones, cured salmon and pastries. Served Fri–Sun; jacket not required but the room rewards it.
Jonas André Nåvik's Michelin-starred room in a lane off Nordre gate, built entirely on Trøndelag produce — Frøya scallops, Røros butter, aged reindeer, fjord shellfish. Sister bistro Søster shares the kitchen downstairs.
Trondheim's original micro-roastery, running since 1997, with its Bakklandet café in a wooden house steps from the Old Town Bridge. Cortados, cardamom buns and city-roasted beans sold by the bag at the counter.
A student institution on Innherredsveien turning out kebab, falafel and pizza since the 1990s. The kebab-i-rull with garlic and chilli sauce is the standard local order, and the queue runs past midnight at weekends.
A brewpub working on Prinsens gate since 1993, with copper kettles behind the bar. Taps rotate through pale ales, a smoked dark beer and the seasonal juleøl, alongside burgers and reindeer sausage from the kitchen.
A former antiquarian bookshop on Nedre Bakklandet turned bar, shelves still loaded along the walls. Live music most evenings, a short list of Norwegian craft beer and cider, and aquavit cocktails poured late.