Regensburg eats like a medieval trading city that never lost the thread: sweet dumplings steamed in tower cellars, one of Bavaria's densest clusters of working breweries, and a market where white radish is cut into salted spirals. Three days of stalls, cellars and river terraces.
Bavaria's produce lands here Monday to Saturday from roughly 07:00 to 17:00: Bavarian Forest cheese, Danube-valley asparagus in May, Obatzda sold by the tub, and Radi (white radish) cut into spirals for €2-3.
At Watmarkt 4, Uli steams Dampfnudel dumplings in a 13th-century tower cellar, served under warm vanilla sauce or savoury with kraut and soup. Around €6-9, cash only, open Wednesday to Saturday at lunchtime.
Trading at Rathausplatz 2 since 1686, Germany's oldest coffee house still makes its own pralines and truffles a floor above the counter. A slice of Prinzesstorte with a Melange runs about €9; chocolates sell by weight.
The brewery tap at Arnulfsplatz 3 has poured its own dark beer since 1530, on shared oak tables under low vaults. A half-litre is around €4.20 and Schweinsbraten with two dumplings roughly €12; the room fills by 18:00.
The cathedral-side tap at Krauterermarkt 3 serves Weisswurst with sweet mustard and a fresh Brezn until noon, following the Bavarian rule that the sausages never hear the midday bells. Two plus a Weissbier is about €10.
Set in one of the Old Town's oldest restaurant buildings at Watmarkt 6, this kitchen treats Bavarian classics with restraint: Danube zander, regional venison, hand-cut noodles. The vaulted room seats around thirty.
Beer has been brewed on this Stadtamhof site since 1350, and the garden pours its own Spital under chestnut trees facing the Danube. Half-litre around €4.50, Schweinshaxe near €15, and self-service Brotzeit at the counter.
Anton Schmaus holds a Michelin star on the top floor of the Goldener Turm at Watmarkt 5, a glass dining room sitting level with the cathedral spires. Tasting menus run roughly €140-190 with a Franconian-leaning wine pairing.
Fröhliche-Türken-Strasse 6 opens at 09:00 and fills with students under painted ceilings. The big breakfast platter of eggs, bacon, fruit and Brezn is about €12, coffee €3.20, and the kitchen keeps going until late evening.
A converted salt warehouse in Stadtamhof houses this kitchen, pairing a river terrace with Mediterranean-Bavarian plates. Lunch dishes run about €12-16 and the view looks straight down the line of the old bridge arches.
The brewery's summer cellar on Galgenbergstrasse seats over a thousand under chestnuts, with self-service Brotzeit: Obatzda, Radi, Steckerlfisch grilled on sticks from around €8, and litre mugs of Edel-Pils near €9.
Keplerstrasse 11 hides a bar inside medieval vaults a block off the river, where cocktails run about €9-12 and the crowd arrives once the beer gardens wind down. The small terrace faces the Danube channel.