Mostar's history is legible in its stonework: Ottoman endowments from the 1550s, Austro-Hungarian facades, and shell craters left from 1992-95. This route follows the layers chronologically, from Herceg Stjepan's fortress to the frontline Bulevar.
Mostar's oldest surviving mosque, endowed in 1552 by Ottoman tax collector Ćejvan Ćehaja, whose waqf also paid for the town's first medresa and hamam. The walled courtyard holds a 16th-century mekteb school and old mulberry trees. Open 09:00-18:00.
Built in 1558 over the Radobolja stream, nine years before the Old Bridge, and long held to be the trial run for Mimar Hayruddin's larger arch. Swept away by floods in 2000 and rebuilt with the original stone blocks recovered downstream. Free access.
A Sufi lodge built around 1520 at the mouth of the Buna karst spring, one of Europe's largest. Ottoman-era divanhana rooms, a wooden mihrab and the turbeh of two dervishes survive inside. Open 08:00-20:00 in summer; 12 km from Mostar.
The ruined hilltop seat of Duke Stjepan Vukčić Kosača, who gave Herzegovina its name and held out here until the Ottoman conquest of 1466. Illyrian and Roman foundations underlie the medieval walls and cisterns. Unstaffed, free, no railings.
Private collection documenting the 1992-95 siege through personal effects, camp survivor testimony, letters and photojournalism from Mostar, Prijedor and Srebrenica. Captions in Bosnian and English. Open daily 09:00-21:00 in summer.
An unfinished 1980s bank tower that became the most notorious sniper nest on the Bulevar frontline during the 1993-94 Croat-Bosniak fighting. The concrete shell is now covered in murals and stands as an unrestored ruin on Kralja Zvonimira.
Bogdan Bogdanović's 1965 necropolis for 810 Mostar partisans killed in WWII — a terraced stone landscape of water channels and abstract grave markers, listed as a national monument. Vandalised repeatedly since 2012 and partly restored.
The boulevard that served as the confrontation line dividing east and west Mostar. Walk from Spanish Square, named for Spanish UN peacekeepers killed here, past the Austro-Hungarian Gimnazija of 1902 and shell-pocked apartment blocks.
A late 17th-century Ottoman residential complex still owned by the same family, with a walled avlija courtyard, kilim-lined selamluk and carved wooden ceilings. Awarded Aga Khan recognition for its restoration; part museum, part guesthouse.
Built in the 16th century as the harem wing of a Turkish judge's estate, this is the least altered Ottoman home in Mostar — low sofas, lattice windows and family textiles arranged as they were when it was inhabited into the 20th century.
Housed in the family home of Džemal Bijedić, Yugoslav prime minister until his 1977 plane crash. Archaeology from Roman Mogorjelo, Ottoman documents and a short film of the Old Bridge's 1993 shelling shown on loop. Open 10:00-18:00.
The half-sunken 1834 Church of the Nativity of the Theotokos, built low because Ottoman rules capped Christian church height. Above it stand the ruins of the 1873 Holy Trinity Cathedral, shelled in 1992 and under slow reconstruction.