Dinant and the Meuse Valley in 3 days: Dinant Citadel (100m limestone cliff — cable car, Dinant Massacre August 23 1914: 674 civilians shot by German troops), Collegiate Notre-Dame (the most unusually bulbous onion dome on any Belgian Gothic church), Adolphe Sax birthplace museum (saxophone patent No.3226 Paris June 28 1846), couque de Dinant (most rock-hard Belgian biscuit since 13th century), Château de Freÿr (most perfectly preserved baroque château on the Meuse 1571), Grottes de Han (145m-high Salle du Dôme + underground Lesse River boat), Lesse River kayaking (most scenic 13km Ardennes gorge), Namur Citadel (most strategically fought-over fortress in the Low Countries — Spanish, French, Dutch, Austrian, British all captured it), Treasure of Oignies (Hugo d'Oignies 1208–1240 — most technically brilliant medieval niello goldwork in Belgium: UNESCO Memory of the World), Félicien Rops Museum (most scandalously erotic 19th-century Belgian printmaker) and farewell lapin à la bière with Trappiste de Rochefort 10.