Yerevan cooks around the tonir clay oven and the Ararat Valley harvest: lavash pressed onto hot walls, apricots dried on rooftops, sujukh strung like candles at GUM Market. Three days of market tasting, khorovats smoke, shawarma queues and wine-street pours.
Yerevan's covered produce hall on Movses Khorenatsi, open daily 09:00–19:00. Vendors slice free samples of walnut sujukh ropes, air-dried basturma crusted in chaman, sun-dried Ararat apricots and twenty kinds of pickled vegetables.
Modern Armenian kitchen on Amiryan with a glass-walled tonir where bakers slap lavash onto the oven wall every few minutes. Order the ghapama pumpkin, spas yoghurt soup and khashlama; portions are large and meant for sharing.
The 1952 basalt-arched market hall on Mashtots still shelters cheese and honey counters behind its carved facade. Taste chechil string cheese, brine-cured lori, motal aged in clay and mountain thyme honey from Syunik beekeepers.
A two-floor Soviet-nostalgia bakery hall on Mashtots frying ponchik custard doughnuts nonstop from 08:00 until midnight. Locals pair them with thick hot chocolate or matsoun-based drinks under chandeliers and painted ceilings.
Named for the UNESCO-listed flatbread, this Tumanyan Street courtyard restaurant bakes lavash in an open tonir all morning. Late breakfast means khash-adjacent broths, matsoun, herb plates and eggs fried with sujukh sausage.
Yerevan's best-known fine-dining address, in a 19th-century tuff townhouse on Pushkin Street since 1998. The signature is dolma wrapped in grape leaves with fresh tarragon, alongside Armenian wine flights from Vayots Dzor and Armavir.
Western Armenian cooking carried from Gaziantep by descendants of survivors: lahmajun rolled with lemon, sour cherry kebab, muhammara, and pistachio-heavy baklava. The menu is unlike anything cooked in Eastern Armenian kitchens.
Village-tavern décor, live duduk some evenings, and a khorovats grill working pork, lamb and whole aubergine-pepper-tomato skewers into smoky ikra. Portions arrive on wooden boards with a pile of warm lavash for wrapping.
A photography library in a Kentron courtyard house where the terrace serves Armenian sourj brewed in a jazve over hot sand, plus filter coffee and cardamom pastries. Quiet mornings among photo books and vines.
The city's most argued-over shawarma window on Tumanyan Street, open from late morning until roughly 04:00. Lavash-wrapped chicken or pork with fries pressed inside, garlic sauce and pickles; the queue moves in about five minutes.
Built into the 1877 Erebuni fortress wine cellars above the Hrazdan gorge, Noy runs tours through barrel tunnels holding brandy and wine casks. Tastings cover three-to-twenty-year brandies plus pomegranate wine.
Anchor bar of Saryan Street, Yerevan's wine strip, pouring Areni Noir, Voskehat and Khndoghni by the glass with cheese and basturma boards. Tables spill onto the pavement and the street stays busy past midnight.