Seoul in 3 days

The DMZ (비무장지대 — the Demilitarized Zone: the 4km-wide buffer zone that runs 250km across the Korean peninsula along the Military Demarcation Line (MDL), the ceasefire boundary from the 1953 Korean War Armistice Agreement (not a peace treaty — North and South Korea are still technically at war). Most accessible from Seoul via organized tour (all DMZ visits require a guide due to military regulations): the JSA (Joint Security Area — Panmunjom, the village where the Armistice was signed, where North and South Korean soldiers stand face-to-face across the MDL), the 3rd Infiltration Tunnel (discovered 1978, dug by North Korea under the DMZ, large enough for 30,000 troops per hour) and the Dora Observatory (the closest most visitors get to North Korean territory — binoculars provided). A completely unique geopolitical experience.

Insadong (인사동 — the traditional culture street of Seoul: traditional Korean craft shops (hanji (한지) — the mulberry bark paper), celadon pottery, calligraphy brushes and ink stones, the Ssamziegil (쌈지길) courtyard market with contemporary Korean design), and the galbi-tang (갈비탕 — the clear beef rib soup, the most warming possible dinner after a long day at the border) restaurants. The Insadong makgeolli (막걸리 — the cloudy unfiltered Korean rice wine, 6–8% ABV, traditionally drunk from a brass bowl with pajeon (파전 — scallion pancake) in a hanji-walled traditional restaurant) bars are the most atmospheric evening experience in central Seoul.

N Seoul Tower (남산서울타워 — 480m above sea level (240m tower on 243m Namsan mountain) — the most iconic landmark of the Seoul skyline: the Namsan Cable Car (남산케이블카 — 605m, 5 minutes from the Myeongdong station) rises through the pine forest on the mountain to the tower base. The observation deck gives the most complete 360° view of Seoul: the Han River (한강 — the river that divides the city into Gangbuk (traditional, north) and Gangnam (modern, south)), the five palaces, the Bukhansan mountain range and on a clear night the lights extending to the horizon in every direction. The Padlocks of Love wall (자물쇠의 사랑의 자물쇠 — thousands of locked padlocks left by couples) is the most photographed corner.

Changdeokgung (창덕궁 — UNESCO World Heritage Palace, 1405 — the most beautiful of Seoul's five palaces: 78 buildings in the main palace area and 60 hectares of forested garden behind (the Huwon / "Rear Garden" or "Secret Garden" (후원 — accessible only by guided tour (Korean or English, timed entry, KRW 8,000): 300 years of landscape garden art in the Joseon tradition, with pavilions, ponds, 26,000 trees including 300+ years-old specimens, and the Buyongji Pond (부용지) with the Buyongjeong pavilion (1795) reflected in the square pond (earth) surrounded by the circular pond (heaven) — the cosmological symbolism of Joseon landscape design made visible).

Gwangjang Market (광장시장 — since 1905, one of the first modern markets in Korea: the most authentic street food market in Seoul, entirely frequented by locals (not primarily a tourist market): bindaetteok (빈대떡 — the mung bean pancake, the signature Gwangjang dish, fried on a hot griddle to a crispy exterior with kimchi or scallion filling), mayak gimbap (마약김밥 — "narcotic kimbap" — the tiny sesame oil-drenched seaweed and rice rolls with carrots and pickled radish, sold by elderly women at stalls with yellow mustard sauce) and raw yukhoe (육회 — the Korean beef tartare with sesame oil, Asian pear, pine nuts and raw egg yolk).

Gangnam (강남 — "south of the river" — the modern, wealthy south bank district made globally famous by Psy's 2012 song: Apgujeong Rodeo Street (압구정 로데오거리 — the Korean luxury fashion strip), COEX Mall (one of the world's largest underground shopping malls), Starfield Library (the famous Instagram-wall of 50,000 books in a public mall atrium), and the SM Entertainment building (one of the K-pop agency buildings where TVXQ, EXO and aespa trained). The Han River at sunset from the Jamsu Bridge pedestrian path is the finest free view in Seoul.

Bibimbap (비빔밥 — "mixed rice": a bowl of steamed rice topped with seasoned spinach, bean sprouts, julienned carrots, sautéed mushrooms, raw or fried egg, and gochujang (고추장 — the fermented red chilli paste, the condiment that defines Korean cuisine) — mixed vigorously at the table before eating. Jihwa Heonshik (지화헌식 — the restaurant serving the Jeonju-style bibimbap (전주비빔밥 — the most revered version, from Jeonju city in North Jeolla Province, the culinary capital of Korea: 30+ banchan accompany the bowl, the beef is seasoned with ganjang not gochujang, the rice is cooked in ox bone broth)).