Jogja eats sweet: jackfruit gudeg simmered overnight in teak leaves, palm-sugar kipo from Kotagede, bakpia still warm from the oven. Three days trace it from dawn market stalls to charcoal-spoke mutton satay and ember-doused coffee at a midnight angkringan.
Jogja's oldest market, trading since 1758. The ground floor sells batik; the back and upper levels hide food stalls serving pecel kembang turi, brem discs and jamu herbal tonics. Snack sellers set up from 05:00.
Wijilan is Jogja's gudeg street — a dozen warungs selling young jackfruit stewed overnight with palm sugar and teak leaf. Yu Djum's is the dry style, plated on banana leaf with krecek, opor ayam and a brown boiled egg.
The market feeding Jogja's old silver quarter, on the site of the 16th-century Mataram capital. Hunt for kipo — thumb-sized green rice-flour parcels of coconut and palm sugar grilled on banana leaf — plus kembang waru cakes and yangko.
A cavernous warung built from recycled teak cattle-shed timber, lit by oil lamps. Bakmi godhog and bakmi goreng are cooked one single portion at a time over charcoal, with free-range chicken broth and a beaten duck egg stirred through.
You eat in the soot-blackened kitchen itself, queueing at the hearth and pointing into clay pots. Mangut lele is catfish smoked over rice husk then simmered in a fierce coconut-chilli curry, served alongside gudeg manggar of coconut blossom.
Klathak is Bantul's mutton satay skewered on iron bicycle spokes and salted only, so the metal conducts heat through the meat and leaves it pink inside. Two long skewers arrive with a bowl of clear tongseng broth and rice.
A mushroom-only restaurant grown out of the owner's cultivation sheds north of the city. Oyster, ear, button and shiitake mushrooms are served as satay, rendang, tongseng and crisp tempura — a rare full sit-down meal for vegetarians in Java.
The restaurant licensed to cook the Kraton's palace recipes, set in a joglo pavilion inside the walled Rotowijayan quarter. Order bebek suwar-suwir, semur piyik squab, and bir jawa — a non-alcoholic ginger and cinnamon drink favoured by the sultans.
A rice-field warung on the Merapi road where coffee is boiled in an open pan over a wood fire until it 'klotok'. The set meal is rice with sayur lodeh, a thick telur dadar omelette and fried banana, with free refills of rice and vegetables.
Open since 1921 on the western edge of town, ladling clear chicken soto over rice with beansprouts and crushed crackers. Trays of sate usus, quail eggs and tempeh sit on each table; you pay for what you take when the bowl is empty.
Watch bakpia being rolled, filled and baked through the open workshop window in the Pathuk lanes. The flaky pastry parcels come with mung bean, cheese, chocolate or durian, sold in boxes of 15 straight from the oven at the counter.
The stall that invented kopi joss: a glowing charcoal ember is dropped hissing into sweet black coffee, which softens the acidity. Eat nasi kucing — palm-sized banana-leaf rice bundles — with skewers grilled to order on low communal benches.