Kano in 3 days: the Hausa city where the 'Moroccan leather' that furnished Renaissance Europe's books and shoes was actually tanned (the Kano origin of Moroccan leather is the best-documented case of trade mislabelling in history), where indigo dye pits 500 years old still produce the Kano blue, and where the Emir's Durbar cavalry parade in centuries-unchanged quilted armour.