Fes in 3 days: Bab Bou Jeloud Blue Gate (1913 French Protectorate — blue exterior = "Fes blue" cobalt-oxide ceramic color), Bou Inania Medersa (Sultan Abu Inan Faris 1351–1356 — most lavishly Marinid-funded single medersa — zellige + carved stucco + cedar wood), Chouara Tannery (11th century — pigeon excrement used as ammonia leather softener — most pungent tourist attraction in Morocco — view from surrounding leather shop rooftops), pastilla (Andalusian Moorish exile sweet-savoury pigeon-almond filo pie — most complex single Moroccan flavour), Al-Qarawiyyin 859 CE (Fatima al-Fihri — world's oldest continuously operating university — Guinness World Records), Medersa Attarine 1323 (most finely zellige-decorated Islamic school adjacent to Al-Qarawiyyin), Volubilis UNESCO Roman ruins (most intact floor mosaics in Africa — Arch of Caracalla 217 CE — 60km from Fes), Meknes Bab Mansour Gate 1732 (most magnificently decorated gate in Morocco — Sultan Moulay Ismail Heri es-Souani 12,000-horse stables), Andalusian quarter (818 CE Córdoba refugees), farewell three-glass mint tea ceremony (bitter as life / strong as love / sweet as death).