3 Days in Antananarivo — Essential Highlights

22km west of Antananarivo: 7 species in 4 hectares of riverine forest, all habituated to humans — approachable to arm's length. The ring-tailed lemur (Lemur catta: the orange eyes, the long black-and-white striped tail, the territorial "stink fight" using tail-waved scent glands). The black-and-white ruffed lemur (Varecia variegata: the largest living lemur, with the loudest call of any lemur — audible 1km through forest). The sacred crocodile lake.

The national zoo of Madagascar: the aye-aye (Daubentonia madagascariensis — the largest brain-to-body ratio of any primate after humans, uses echolocation unique among primates, the elongated 3rd finger for probing bark crevices: considered fady (taboo/evil omen) by many Malagasy — seeing one near a village predicts death). The fossa (Cryptoprocta ferox: the cat-like apex predator of Madagascar, actually a mongoose relative, hunts lemurs). Parson's chameleon: the world's largest chameleon (70cm total length).

The craft market in the Basse-Ville: the Malagasy wild silk (soie sauvage) from the Borocera cajani silkworm (endemic to Madagascar, feeds on the endemic tapia tree: the "Lalandahy" silk is creamier and less lustrous than Chinese silk but with a specific character that makes it one of the most valued luxury textiles in the world). Zebu horn crafts (the most important sustainable Malagasy craft material). Raffia palm baskets from the endemic Raphia farinifera.

Tilapia (Oreochromis niloticus — introduced 1950s, now the most important freshwater food fish in Madagascar: colonized all highland lakes, rivers and rice paddies): the 500g highland lake tilapia, charcoal-grilled whole and served on heaped vary (rice) with laoka (the salted greens accompaniment). The simplest and most authentic everyday highland Malagasy meal. The endemic Paretroplus cichlids (the original Malagasy freshwater fish) available in specialist restaurants.

19km north (UNESCO 2001): the "Blue Beautiful Hill" — the royal city of King Andrianampoinimerina (who unified the Merina people and began the conquest of Madagascar in the late 18th century). The Mahitsy wooden palace (the traditional trano gasy style). The vatolahy (the granite disc stone that seals the main gate each evening — 12 men required to move it, rolled across since the 18th century). The sacred forest and pools within the enclosure.

The main covered food market: the vanilla section. Bourbon vanilla (Vanilla planifolia) from the Sava region (Sambava, Antalaha) on the northeast coast: 95% of world natural vanilla production comes from Madagascar. The specific flavor: high vanillin content (1.5–2% vs. 1% in Tahiti/Mexico) + creamy, sweet, slightly woody note. A pod at the market: MGA 500–1,000 (€0.11–0.22). A pod in a European supermarket: €10. Also: highland rice varieties (vary mena red rice, vary fotsy white, vary be fragrant) and zebu cuts.

The Merina "turning of the bones" ceremony (dry season only, July–September): the family digs open the tomb, removes the silk-wrapped remains of recently deceased relatives, rewraps them in new lambamena silk shrouds (the most valued object in Malagasy culture — several months' wages each), carries them on shoulders around the tomb to a brass band and family singing, then returns them to the tomb. A celebration, not a mourning. The razana (ancestors) are believed to continue influencing the living. Requires invitation through a cultural tourism operator.

Akoho sy voanio: the akoho gasy (the free-ranging village chicken — firmer, darker and more flavorful than commercial chicken) slow-cooked in fresh coconut milk (from coastal lowland coconuts brought to the highland market) with Malagasy ginger (strongly flavored, smaller than Asian varieties), tamotamo (the yellow turmeric powder from the Malagasy highlands), garlic and tomatoes. The most complete expression of the coastal-highland culinary fusion that defines the Antananarivo kitchen. Served over heaped vary (rice).