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🏛️ History

Alexandria for History Lovers — 3 Days of Ptolemies, Caesars and Cotton Kings

Catacombs, Roman theatres and a Mamluk fort built on the ruins of the Pharos — the layered past of Egypt's Mediterranean capital

📍 Alexandria, Egypt 📅 3-day itinerary

Alexandria hides its 2,300 years underground and underwater: Roman villas beneath a tram stop, Christian tombs carved into Ptolemaic rock, and the Pharos itself recycled into a sultan's fortress. Three days to read the layers.

Ancient & Medieval History

09:00
⚰️ Catacombs of Kom El Shoqafa

A 2nd-century AD funerary complex sunk 35m down a spiral shaft, rediscovered in 1900 when a donkey fell through. The main tomb fuses Egyptian gods with Roman togas; the Hall of Caracalla holds bones of massacred youths. Daily 09:00–17:00.

⏱ 2-3 hours 💶 100 EGP foreigners, 20 EGP students
Go straight down the spiral staircase before the tour buses arrive at 10:30 — the lower level floods and is often closed by afternoon humidity.
12:00
🏛️ Pompey's Pillar & the Serapeum

A 27m red Aswan granite column raised in 297 AD for Diocletian, misnamed by Crusaders. It stands on the ruins of the Serapeum, the temple that housed the daughter library of Alexandria until Christian mobs destroyed it in 391 AD.

⏱ 1.5 hours 💶 80 EGP
Descend into the underground gallery on the west side — the niches held the Serapeum's scroll collection and are usually empty of visitors.
14:30
🎭 Kom El Dikka Roman Amphitheatre

Egypt's only surviving Roman theatre, found in 1960 by Polish archaeologists digging foundations for a government block. Thirteen marble tiers, a set of lecture halls from the 5th-century university, and the Villa of the Birds with its mosaic floors.

⏱ 2 hours 💶 100 EGP, plus 50 EGP for the Villa of the Birds
17:00
🏰 Citadel of Qaitbay

Sultan Qaitbay built this fortress in 1477 on the exact footprint of the Pharos lighthouse, reusing its fallen granite blocks — several are still visible in the northern walls. The keep's mosque is the oldest surviving in the city.

⏱ 1.5 hours
Walk the sea wall on the north side at sunset; divers work the submerged Ptolemaic ruins of the royal quarter 8m below the water just offshore.

Modern History & Monuments

10:00
🏺 Graeco-Roman Museum

Reopened in October 2023 after two decades of restoration, the 1892 museum holds 40,000 objects: Tanagra figurines, the black granite Apis bull from the Serapeum, and mummy portraits. Sat–Thu 09:00–17:00.

⏱ 2 hours 💶 300 EGP foreigners, 150 EGP students
Room 6's Ptolemaic coin cabinet traces the currency reforms of every ruler from Ptolemy I to Cleopatra VII — labelled in English.
13:00
Alexandria National Museum

The restored Al-Saad Bassili Pasha palace, built in 1929 for a cotton magnate and later the US consulate. Three floors run chronologically downward: Pharaonic in the basement, Graeco-Roman on the ground, Coptic and Islamic above.

⏱ 1 hour
15:00
🕌 Abu al-Abbas al-Mursi Mosque

Built 1929–1945 over the 13th-century tomb of an Andalusian Sufi from Murcia, in cream Italian stone with an octagonal plan and a 73m minaret. The surrounding Anfoushi quarter is the old Ottoman Turkish town.

⏱ 2 hours 💶 Free, donation expected for shoe custody
18:00
🌹 Montaza Palace Gardens

Khedive Abbas II built the Salamlek hunting lodge in 1892; King Fuad added the Haramlik in 1932 in a Florentine-Ottoman hybrid. Farouk was in residence here in July 1952 when the Free Officers forced his abdication.

Enter by the Mandara gate and walk to the Ottoman bridge — the Haramlik interior is closed but the terrace view of the royal bathing beach is open.

Living History: Neighbourhoods & Stories

09:30
🕍 Eliyahu Hanavi Synagogue

Founded in 1354, rebuilt in 1850 after Napoleon's bombardment, and restored by the Egyptian state in 2020 at a cost of 100 million EGP. Fourteen marble columns, a women's gallery, and the Torah scrolls of a community that once numbered 40,000.

⏱ 2 hours 💶 Free, passport required at the gate
Nebi Daniel Street entrance only, and security keeps phones at the desk — arrive before 11:00 as visits stop for the guards' shift change.
12:30
Church of Saint Mark, Anfoushi

The Coptic Orthodox cathedral marks where the evangelist Mark is said to have been martyred in 68 AD, making Alexandria the mother see of African Christianity. The present building dates to 1870, on foundations rebuilt many times over.

⏱ 1.5 hours
14:30
🏘️ Anfoushi Necropolis & Ras el-Tin quarter

Ptolemaic rock-cut tombs from the 3rd century BC painted with false marble and alabaster patterns, sitting under the fishing lanes of Anfoushi. Ras el-Tin Palace nearby is where Farouk boarded the yacht Mahroussa into exile.

⏱ 2 hours 💶 60 EGP
17:30
Café Trianon & the cosmopolitan quarter

The 1905 café on Saad Zaghloul Square where Cavafy took his coffee, with Art Nouveau ceilings intact. Around it lie the vanished Greek, Italian and Levantine Alexandria of Durrell's Quartet — the Cecil Hotel is across the square.

Sit in the wood-panelled inner room rather than the pastry counter; the murals of the original dining hall survive there under the mezzanine.

📍 Route map

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